Posted on Saturday 31 January 2009
one hand, and French cooks and _pate de foie gras_ on the other. Butwhile everybody knows practically how things taste to us, and whichthings respectively we like and dislike, comparatively few people everrecognise that the sense of taste is not merely intended as a source ofgratification, but serves a useful purpose in our bodily economy, ininforming us what we ought to eat and what to refuse. Paradoxical as itmay sound at first to most people, nice things are, in the main, thingsthat are good for us, and nasty things are poisonous or otherwiseinjurious. That we often practically find the exact contrary the case(alas!) is due, not to the provisions of nature, but to the artificialsurroundings in which we live, and to the cunning way in which weflavour up unwholesome food, so as to deceive and cajole the naturalpalate. Yet, after all, it is a pleasant gospel that what we like isreally good for us, and, when we have made some small allowances forartificial conditions, it is in the main a true one also.
The sense of taste, which in the lowest animals is diffused equally overthe whole frame, is in ourselves and other higher creatures concentratedin a special part of the body, namely the mouth, where the food about tobe swallowed is chewed and otherwise prepared beforehand for the work ofdigestion. Now it is, of course, quite clear that some sort ofsupervision must be exercised by the body over the kind of food that isgoing to be put into it. Common experience teaches us that prussic acidand pure opium are undesirable food-stuffs in large quantities; that rawspirits, petroleum, and red lead should be sparingly partaken of by thejudicious feeder; and that even green fruit, the bitter end of cucumber,and the berries of deadly nightshade are unsatisfactory articles of dietwhen continuously persisted in. If, at the very outset of our digestiveapparatus, we hadn’t a sort of automatic premonitory adviser upon thekinds of food we ought or ought not to indulge in, we should naturallycommit considerable imprudences in the way of eating and drinking–evenmore than we do at present. Natural selection has therefore provided uswith a fairly efficient guide in this respect in the sense of taste,which is placed at the very threshold, as it were, of our digestivemechanism. It is the duty of taste to warn us against uneatable things,and to recommend to our favourable attention eatable and wholesome ones;and, on the whole, in spite of small occasional remissness, it performsthis duty with creditable success.
Taste, however, is not equally distributed over the whole surface of thetongue alike. There are three distinct regions or tracts, each of whichhas to perform its own special office and function. The tip of thetongue is concerned mainly with pungent and acrid tastes; the middleportion is sensitive chiefly to sweets and bitters; while the back orlower portion confines itself almost entirely to the flavours of roastmeats, butter, oils, and other rich or fatty substances. There are verygood reasons for this subdivision of faculties in the tongue, the objectbeing, as it were, to make each piece of food undergo three separateexaminations (like ’smalls,’ ‘mods,’ and ‘greats’ at Oxford), which mustbe successively passed before it is admitted into full participation in