Posted on Tuesday 30 December 2008
undue credit for having heroically read it through out of pure love ofscience: I was one of its unfortunate reviewers.) The wild form producesseed, and grows in Cochin China, the Philippines, Ceylon, and Khasia.Like most other large tropical fruits, it no doubt owes its originaldevelopment to the selective action of monkeys, hornbills, parrots andother big fruit-eaters; and it shares with all fruits of similar originone curious tropical peculiarity. Most northern berries, like thestrawberry, the raspberry, the currant, and the blackberry, developedby the selective action of small northern birds, can be popped at onceinto the mouth and eaten whole; they have no tough outer rind ordefensive covering of any sort. But big tropical fruits, which laythemselves out for the service of large birds or monkeys, have alwayshard outer coats, because they could only be injured by smaller animals,who would eat the pulp without helping in the dispersion of the usefulseeds, the one object really held in view by the mother plant. Often, asin the case of the orange, the rind even contains a bitter, nauseous, orpungent juice, while at times, as in the pine-apple, the prickly pear,the sweet-sop, and the cherimoyer, the entire fruit is covered withsharp projections, stinging hairs, or knobby protuberances, on purposeto warn off the unauthorised depredator. It was this line of defencethat gave the banana in the first instance its thick yellow skin; and,looking at the matter from the epicure’s point of view, one may sayroughly that all tropical fruits have to be skinned before they can beeaten. They are all adapted for being cut up with a knife and fork, ordug out with a spoon, on a civilised dessert-plate. As for that mostdelicious of Indian fruits, the mango, it has been well said that theonly proper way to eat it is over a tub of water, with a couple oftowels hanging gracefully across the side.
The varieties of the banana are infinite in number, and, as in mostother plants of ancient cultivation, they shade off into one another byinfinitesimal gradations. Two principal sorts, however, are commonlyrecognised–the true banana of commerce, and the common plantain. Thebanana proper is eaten raw, as a fruit, and is allowed accordingly toripen thoroughly before being picked for market; the plantain, which isthe true food-stuff of all the equatorial region in both hemispheres, isgathered green and roasted as a vegetable, or, to use the moreexpressive West Indian negro phrase, as a bread-kind. Millions of humanbeings in Asia, Africa, America, and the islands of the Pacific Oceanlive almost entirely on the mild and succulent but tasteless plantain.Some people like the fruit; to me personally it is more suggestive of avery flavourless over-ripe pear than of anything else in heaven or earthor the waters that are under the earth–the latter being the mostprobable place to look for it, as its taste and substance are decidedlywatery. Baked dry in the green state ‘it resembles roasted chestnuts,’or rather baked parsnip; pulped and boiled with water it makes ‘a veryagreeable sweet soup,’ almost as nice as peasoup with brown sugar in it;and cut into slices, sweetened, and fried, it forms ‘an excellentsubstitute for fruit pudding,’ having a flavour much like that ofpotatoes _a la maitre d’hotel_ served up in treacle.